Listan Negro

            This is the black version of Palomino, an undistinguished white grape mostly used for sherry. Recently, reds from Listan Negro produced in the Canary Islands have been getting quite a bit of attention in the U.S., largely due to the efforts of importer Jose Pastor.

            One often in the spotlight is this Tajinaste Tenerife Valle de la Orotava, which uses a “braided cord” production in which ungrafted vines, some nearly a century old, lie low against the island’s volcanic soil. Part of the production gets several months of oak aging.

            The New York Times’ Eric Asimov described the 2010 Tajinaste as “juicy and perfumed.” We would have been better off waiting a year or two to taste our bottle from that vintage. It seemed closed in, with the oak dominating the fruit.

            Food pairing: Many tasters suggest slow-cooked pork, often with a rich or even spicy sauce.