Vernaccia Nera

            This variety from the Italian Marche region is unrelated to the better-known Vernaccia di San Gimigiano of Tuscany or Vernaccia di Oristano of Sardinia. The name is thought to be related to the Latin vernaculus, meaning “of this place,” and to the English word “vernacular.” So, in the area around Serrapetrona, this is the local black grape.

            As such it has its own DOCG, at least when it is made in a dry spumante style. The Colli di Serrapetrona winery, however, specializes in still wines: rosés, reds from partially dried grapes fermented and aged in oak, and this product, fermented in stainless steel.

            It’s not complex, but tasty enough. Were it not for the firm tannins, this medium-bodied wine might remind you of a cru Beaujolais with its lip-smacking grapiness. At a mid-teens price point, I considered it a worthwhile new wine experience.

            Food pairing: I prepared pork with fennel because the maker suggested it as a match, and while the dish was suitable we didn’t consider it magically harmonious. A step closer to that ideal might be if that fennel were flavoring Italian sausages served over pasta.