Duras

            Duras is strongly associated with France’s Tarn department, which claims a wine-making history of several millennia. Despite its longevity, this black grape hasn’t earned much renown, but in my opinion it deserves more appreciation.

            An excellent ambassador for the variety is this offering from Domaine Plageoles, known for its promotion of Gaillac wines and dedication to natural wine-making. There’s a nice profile of the Plageoles family on The Vine Route blog. Their range of wines from traditional Gaillac varieties would make the winery a rewarding destination for the varietal hunter. My bottle was from Astor Wines in New York. Not cheap at $24, but very interesting to experience.

            What’s particularly noticeable about this hearty red is the purity and clarity of its fruit, due in large part to its vinification and elevage in cement vats. It has a very pleasant and distinct blackberry flavor that sets it apart from the crowd. The only grape I could really say it resembles is Sagrantino.

            Food pairing: We had it with a roast leg of lamb, and it was a worthy companion. Any flavorful meaty dish, possibly one that’s slightly rustic, would be a good excuse to open a bottle.