Merlot Noir

            Merlot Noir, the queen of Bordeaux, has the feminine characteristics of softness, roundness and opulence to complement the sterner qualities of King Cabernet Sauvignon. (And in the tradition of European royalty interbreeding, they are in fact half-siblings, each having Cabernet Franc as a parent.) It is reportedly the most widely planted grape in France and has been adopted almost wherever wine is made, thanks to its ability to produce large quantities of juicy, enjoyable quaff.

            This has engendered a certain lack of respect for the varietal wine among serious oenophiles, most famously expressed in the “I’m not drinking any fucking Merlot” line from the film “Sideways.” So, as I begin to upgrade the classic varieties in my tasting collection, I have replaced a lower-shelf California product with one from an area that does get some respect: Pomerol. The uncontested best wine of the appellation, Chateau Petrus, usually contains 5 percent Cabernet Franc but is occasionally made with 100 percent Merlot Noir. One instance is the 2010 vintage, which is currently available en primeur for as little as $2,499 a bottle.

            Someday I may get a taste of that, but until then I’ll settle for my bottle of Fleur de Gay, the luxury cuvee of Petrus neighbor Chateau La Croix de Gay, at a mere 3 percent of the price. Although more than a decade old, the wine was remarkably fresh and charming. The flavors were intense without being jammy or overpowering, and the family resemblance to Cabernet Sauvignon was apparent, as were the differences. The tannins of this oak-raised wine played only a modest supporting role to the mouth-filling fruit.

            Food pairing: We followed Hugh Johnson’s recommendation in his 2012 Pocket Wine Book and prepared an unctuous oxtail stew.