Veltliner Gruen

            This Central European variety lost favor among the wine elite after becoming almost too trendy in recent years, but this bottling from Austria’s Weinrieder could make new converts. The grape, known as Gruner Veltliner seemingly everywhere except the Vitis variety catalog, is a cook’s favorite because of its affinity for food.

            The importer Blue Danube Wine Co. in Los Altos, Calif., which provided my bottle, speaks of its “pleasant fruity zing.” That’s a good description as far as it goes, but it didn’t go far enough for my bottle of the 2008 vintage. The wine’s fresh acidity gave it a very alert character – zesty without being sharp. The quite pronounced flavor was citrusy and a bit peachy, with mineral overtones. Very, very enjoyable, and a good value in the high teens. Gru-vee, man.

            Food pairing: We had it with simply grilled salmon, but pork would seem to be its natural partner. Nearly every wine writer cites its versatility, recommending it with seafood, white meats and even vegetables such as asparagus and artichokes. Like the Riesling that overshadows it, it also makes well-balanced dessert wines.