Pallagrello Nero

            This grape, a specialty of the Campanian province of Caserta, is unusual in that it has a white-grape sibling, Pallagrello Bianco. These ancient grapes were long thought to be identical to the better-known Coda di Volpe Bianca and Nera, but have since been recognized as distinct varieties.

            This largely took place because of the efforts of a former lawyer, Peppe Mancini, and a former journalist, Manuela Piancastelli, who championed both Pallagrellos along with another traditional variety, Casavecchia, grown at their small property called Terre del Principe, and won recognition for all three in Italy’s national catalogue of winemaking grapes.

            Many reviewers tout the richness and longevity of this wine. Indeed, I’m not sure if the 2006 vintage we tasted in 2012 was a bit too old or too young. It was enjoyable, but the tannins were more noticeable than the fruit, making for a bottom-heavy flavor.

Food pairing: My favorite suggestion comes from Italian Wine Merchants, which calls it “ruddy and rustic” and says, “If you're looking for a wine to accompany your favorite Tuesday night dinner of cheeseburgers, look no further.” As it happened, we drank it with broiled sockeye salmon with a spinach-tomato-capers sauce, which needed a lighter and fruitier red. Perhaps it would go with veal and mushroom pasta, if your conscience allows it.