Jacquez

            A grape with an interesting story. The National Grape Registry says it’s a hybrid of V. aestivalis and a V. cinerea x V. vinifera cross. It supposedly originated in the southeastern U.S. in the early 19^th century as a naturally occurring hybrid, and then was exported to Europe after the phylloxera crisis. Jancis Robinson says it is common in Madeira under the name Black Spanish.

            It remains popular in the U.S., particularly in Texas under the name of Lenoir, for its resistance to Pierce’s disease and the quality of its dark, sugary red juice. (A Google search turns up other attributes: NIH studies showing that compounds in the juice may have anti-diarrheal effects and protect the skin against UV damage.)

            This example comes from Haak Vineyards south of Houston and has a flavor profile similar to traditional port. Lovers of that wine may find this one a bit watery, however, and although wine from this grape is said to maintain or even improve its quality after it has been opened, my bottle did eventually acquire a distinct sourness.

            Good for sipping after the barbecue or with the usual port accompaniments such as nuts or cheese.