Edelweiss

            Edelweiss is a cold-hardy hybrid developed by Elmer Swenson, whose grape-breeding experiments dating back to the 1940s have left a lasting mark on the wine industry in the northern U.S. Edelweiss has a little V. vinifera in its pedigree, but a lot more V. labrusca – including Concord on both sides of its family tree – and some of the Minnesota V. riparia that’s often found in Swenson crossings.

            The notorious labrusca muskiness is said to be minimized by early harvesting of Edelweiss, and its precocious ripening – sometimes as early as August – makes it a natural choice for a Maine vineyard such as Prospect Hill Winery. Proprietor Richard Carle, a real Yankee craftsman, makes a wonderful dry, crisp and fruity version that might change some assumptions about Maine wine.

            Food pairing: We drank this bottle on the pier at Wellfleet, Mass., last summer with a bucket of takeout steamer clams, a green salad and some rolls. Absolutely perfect.