Feteasca Neagra

            Feteasca Neagra (“Black Maiden”) is an old variety cultivated traditionally in the south of Moldavia province in eastern Romania, according to a 2007 paper by the University of Agronomical Sciences and Veterinary Medicine of Bucharest. Recognition of its potential for quality red wine has led to its spread throughout the country, and dozens of versions are now produced, most of them dry. Importation to the U.S. is becoming more frequent, as evidenced by the appearance of this wine from the Recas Winery at my local Total Wine superstore.

            According to the university’s paper, wine from this grape resembles that made from major international varieties – so much so that one prominent Romanian taster confessed that he identifies it by a process of elimination (“that is, after dismissing the possibility of a Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or Pinot Noir”). That was my impression. Its flavor was pleasant but undistinguished, a generic red-wine taste with average intensity, acidity and astringency, and no particular fruit flavor standing out above the others. Tasters often mention currants and plums.

            Food pairing: Disregarding the bottle’s inevitable recommendation of roasted red meat and anticipating a middleweight wine, we drank it with chicken chili, and it was serviceable. Some recommend lean, mild meats such as pork and veal.