De Chaunac

            De Chaunac is a hybrid created by the French breeder Albert Seibel with an American-style diversity of origin. It is an interspecific crossing, and how! Tracing its lineage in the Vitis database turns up no fewer than five grape species -- labrusca, lincecumii, riparia, rupestris and vinifera -- within four generations. And that’s just on one parent’s side. How’s that for a melting pot?

            It’s most widely grown now in the northeastern U.S. and eastern Canada, to which it was introduced as Seibel 9549 in the mid-20^th century by the Canadian enologist Adhemar de Chaunac. It was once quite popular, due to its ability to survive very cold winters and produce wine with complex fruit flavors that are enhanced by oak, according to Hudson Valley Wine Magazine.

            This offering from Altamont Vineyard and Winery near Albany, N.Y., is probably not the best ambassador for the grape. While certainly drinkable (we finished the bottle), it was somewhat thin and bitter. Hopefully this is not what Upstate New Yorkers consider to be passion.

            Food pairing: A rice casserole with spinach and cheese might work.