Croatina

   This wine, from southwestern Lombardy, reminded me of Sangiovese (others compare it to its nearer neighbor Dolcetto), but was a bit lighter in body and brighter in acidity. The bitterness this variety is sometimes said to display was not especially noticeable. A 2009, it gained noticeable depth and complexity a half-hour or so after being opened.

   You’ll notice the label says Bonarda. I had originally hoped that this was Bonarda Piemontese, but the friendly and knowledgeable manager of Potenza Wine Shop on 15^th Street Northwest in D.C. informed me that this is the name used for Croatina in the Oltrepo Pavese region. It’s also different than the South American red gaining popularity in the U.S., about which more later.

   Food pairing: I drank this with a (slightly underdone) Ricciuti’s pizza topped with caramelized onions, fresh garlic, red bell peppers, gorgonzola and mozzarella. It deserved finer fare. Maybe a cured ham risotto would pair well.