Airen

            As late as 2004, Airen was the world’s most-grown grape in terms of acreage, according to Wikipedia. But it is losing the favor it long enjoyed across vast expanses of central Spain because of its resistance to drought and disease. Most of the crop traditionally went into brandy; some, tinted with other juice, produced the pale red of Valdepenas.

            A relatively small percentage was used for sharp whites like this example from Vinos Ambiz. These grapes are grown by two partners as a sideline from their day jobs and used to make “natural, organic, healthful and sustainable wine,” sold unfiltered in recycled bottles. The winemakers say cleanliness is paramount in the wine-making process and that as a rule nothing is added to the juice, not even sulfites.

            The result is an honest, straightforward wine that reflects the character of the Airen grape, unfortunately. Cloudy in the glass, it has an almost glowingly green tint. Fruity it’s not, but you would call it refreshing. And clean.

            Food pairing: We tried this with a bouillabaisse, which likes a neutral dry white, but it wasn’t a successful match. The wine was just too austere. If I come across it again I’d like to taste it with a Caesar salad – with organic romaine, of course.