A member of
the Muscat
family that is a specialty of Trentino-Alto Adige. Some call it a color variant
of Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains, but it is listed as a separate variety in
VIVC.
It is
usually vinified as a sweet wine, which Jancis
Robinson notes has “assumed almost cult status.” Franz Haas, who produces this example, says that the low-yielding vines must be planted in a windy area to avoid
botrytis. Very high sugar levels allow production of a dessert wine from grapes
that are neither harvested late nor dried. Haas leaves the wine on the skins
for only a few days to avoid astringency, then interrupts the fermentation by
refrigeration and transfers the wine to stainless steel for six months before
bottling.
Production
is limited, and the wine is quite expensive (I paid $49 for my half-bottle).
But it certainly provides a wonderful experience for your money. The aroma of
candied fruit is quite enticing, with very many sniffers reporting the scent of
roses – to me a somewhat fanciful perception suggested by the name. The color,
too -- a clear, deep cherry-red -- is quite attractive. And these sensory
promises are more than fulfilled by the flavor itself. The winemaker’s
promotional material describes “a fascinating interplay between acidity,
sweetness and tannin,” and for once this is not just hype. There is a great
deal of depth and complexity to the flavor. Cherry stood out to me, as well as
some unidentifiable savory note, and others report tasting orange peel,
cinnamon, cloves and, of course, roses. It’s a wine that can truly be called
interesting.
Food
pairing: Haas recommends chocolate, others suggest blue cheese. I agree with
those who consider it a “meditation wine” that is best appreciated without
food.
