A grape of the
Madiran region of southwestern France whose name “little curved [one]” is
thought to refer to the shape of the small berries or the vine itself. It is
grown on both sides of the Pyrenees and
supposedly is blended into the Txakoli wines of the Basque region, though on
its own, dry or sweet, it produces wine nothing like those nervy whites.
This bottle from well-known grower Alain Brumont is built for power and has a character as exotic as its AOC name, Pacherenc du
Vic Bilh. Fermented and raised in oak, it was still going strong four years
after the vintage, no doubt partly because of its 14 percent ABV. Almost greasy
in texture and deep yellow in color, it has a flavor profile to match: citrus in
quantities to overcome the oak and a note that more than one taster has
referred to as toast.
Food
pairing: Chicken is often recommended, so I made Martha Stewart’s chicken
burritos with goat cheese, raw spinach and a cooked mixture of corn, onion and
jalapeno. Didn’t faze this wine. Despite its inland origins, I’d have to think
smoked salmon would pair well, particularly if served on toast.
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