Siegfriedrebe

            Siegfriedrebe has origins worthy of a romance novel. One parent is Riesling Weiss, considered by some the noblest grape of all. The other is Oberlin Noir, the exotic, dark-skinned offspring of Gamay Noir and the American climbing grape Riparia Millardet. Their interspecific breeding took place in Germany in 1936 (strangely enough), in an obvious attempt to impart some of riparia’s cold-hardiness and disease resistance to a new grape with Riesling’s exalted flavor profile.

            As is generally the case, the breeder’s highest hopes were unrealized. But Reisling’s royal genes are certainly discernible, at least in this bottle from Peace Valley Winery, a Pennsylvania producer that has been experimenting with European-American hybrids since 1968. The wine may not be thrilling or profound, but your German visitors should enjoy its clean, simple, sweet-and-sour fruit flavor. Try a glass on your next visit to Bar Sinister.

Food pairing: An excellent accompaniment to Cindy Saiah’s homemade apple pie.